Ports 1961 Spring 2010 Collection
By Carey Faust

The glorious irony was that the first palpable signs of Fall in New York City occurred in tandem with the first visible signs of Spring… Spring fashion, that is.  Fashionistas from far and wide flocked to crisp and breezy Bryant Park yesterday for the September 10th launch of Fashion Week, and with it, the unveiling of the Ports 1961 Spring 2010 collection.  Among those spotted were stylish fashion icons Ivanka Trump and Olivia Palermo, who occupied adjacent front row seats.

Ports’ Creative Director Tia Cibani has revealed that she looks toward specific people, places, eras, and ethnicities as inspiration for her collections; it is undeniable that the Japanese culture acted as her latest muse, with the underlying and related theme of man being one with nature.  The backdrop, an image of a Zen Garden with sand, stones, and grass, immediately served to establish the tone that would embody the entire show – one of serenity and simplicity, with bold and literal oriental and nature-inspired influences.     

Muted and pastel shades were the first to sashay down the runway: whites and beiges, champagnes and silvers, peaches and pale pinks.  Pops of red in traditional Japanese scenes (as a surprise on the back of several garments) added sporadic contrast and dimension to some of the neutral and metallic color palettes.  Many pieces took on a kimonoesque quality, sewn from luxurious silks and satins and draped majestically across the body with loose and fluid sleeves.  As seen in traditional Japanese robes, Cibani used straight-line silhouettes and secured many of her designs with a wide sash tied in the back, creating an hourglass shape.  Her modern renditions had strapless, wide v-neck, and one shoulder tops that utilized the kimono wrapping effect in their impeccable construction.  Also eye-catching were cocktail dresses with stylized, structured bodices of stiffer fabrics, melting into sleek, fitted skirts. 

It seems that the emphasis will definitely be on backs this season, as most of the collection’s embellishments and structural details could be found on pieces’ backs as opposed to fronts.  A variation on the traditional cowl neck is what I’d call the “cowl back”, in which drapey, cascading fabrics created a flirty, barebacked look with plunging backlines.  In contrast, necklines were high, straight, and conservative.  Other back accents – or “backccents” :) – were elaborate folds, chainmail weaves, and ornate knots.  Keep an eye out for sultry tops like these as a must, must-have for Spring.

As the music gradually transitioned from traditional oriental compositions to more modern and funky variations, the styles being exhibited began to undergo a similar shift.  Separates became more common, including harem pants, sheer jackets, and embellished vests.  Also fabulous and fun were futuristic accessories like flowy, white organza gloves and large, bouncy necklaces made of delicate, shredded silk encased in transparent vinyl.

The sophistication and edge of a collection that so seamlessly marries the traditional with the revolutionary, all the while exuding the grace and tranquility of a mysteriously unique culture and the ephemeral beauty of nature, cannot for a moment be overlooked.  Ports’ Spring collection paints an innovative and multifaceted portrait of the modern woman and embodies femininity in its most regal and organic form.